Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.
Dynamite Red Crape Myrtle
Dynamite Red Crape Myrtle is a crape myrtle bred for clear, true red flowers, with no pink tone. The ruffled clusters open at the branch tips from early summer into fall. It grows into a small tree about 15 to 20 feet tall, with orange-red fall leaves and smooth, peeling bark in winter. Use it as a patio tree, at an entry, or in a group for summer color.
Best for: a red summer accent by the patio or front entry, groups of small flowering trees, and color in the watered part of the yard.
Its true red flower clusters open from early summer into fall. Plant it where you see it from the patio, a window or the front walk.
Dynamite stays smaller than the tall crape myrtles, around 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide. That size suits a patio corner or a spot by the front entry.
Set trees about 8 to 12 feet apart for a row or a cluster of summer color. Keep the group in the watered part of the yard, since it needs more water than desert trees.
Strong reflected heat and hot west walls can scorch the leaf edges in mid to late summer. It struggles in a dry gravel bed, and alkaline soil can yellow the new leaves, so plan on iron in spring.
- Row or group of trees8-12 ft apart
- Single tree with trunks on show12+ ft apart
Water a new tree every 1 to 2 days in summer for the first two weeks, or every 3 to 4 days in cooler months. Stretch to about weekly in summer by the second month. Keep up deep soaks for about 3 years.
Once rooted, soak it 2 to 3 feet deep every 1 to 2 weeks in summer and every 2 to 4 weeks in winter. Water at the canopy edge and move the water out as the tree grows.
Prune while it is bare in late winter. Remove old seed pods, suckers and dead or crossing branches. Do not cut the trunks back hard, and take no more than a quarter of the canopy in a year.
New leaves that turn yellow with green veins need iron. Use an iron product made for alkaline soil in spring, and repeat if the yellow returns.
Browned leaf edges in mid to late summer are heat stress. Keep it away from hot west walls and reflected heat, and water deeply through the hottest weeks.
Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.
Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.
Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.
If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.
If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.
Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.
Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.
Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.
How big does Dynamite crape myrtle get?
It grows about 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide, smaller than tall varieties like Muskogee and Natchez. Check the Spacing tab before you pick the spot.
Are the flowers really red?
Yes. Dynamite was bred for a true red with no pink tone. The flowers come in ruffled clusters at the branch tips.
When does it bloom in Phoenix?
Crape myrtles bloom in the Valley from about June through September. They need summer heat to bloom well. Snip off spent flower clusters to push a second round.
How often should I water it?
It needs more water than a desert tree. Once rooted, soak it 2 to 3 feet deep every 1 to 2 weeks in summer and every 2 to 4 weeks in winter. Water at the edge of the canopy, not the trunk.
Does it need afternoon shade?
Give it full sun for the best bloom. Keep it off hot west walls and away from strong reflected heat, which can scorch the leaves in mid to late summer.
Why do the leaf edges turn brown in summer?
Heat stress is common on crape myrtle in Phoenix from mid to late summer. Deep watering in hot weather helps, and a spot away from reflected heat helps most.
Why are the new leaves yellow with green veins?
That is iron trouble in alkaline soil, and crape myrtle is prone to it. Apply an iron product made for alkaline soil in spring, and repeat if the yellow comes back.
How do I prune it?
Prune in late winter while it is bare. Take off old seed pods, dead or crossing branches, and suckers at the base. Do not top it, which ruins the shape and brings weak shoots.
Does it get powdery mildew?
Dynamite was bred to resist powdery mildew. Mildew still shows up more in shade and still air, so plant it in full sun with room around it.
What pests bother it?
Aphids are the most common pest, and their sticky honeydew can turn leaves black with sooty mold. Hose them off or use insecticidal soap.
How cold hardy is it?
Crape myrtle is hardy to about 0°F, so Valley winters do not hurt it. It drops its leaves in winter and leafs out again in spring.
Is it safe around pets?
Crape myrtle is listed as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses, so no special steps are needed around pets.
Dynamite Red Crape Myrtle for sale in Arizona, delivered to you
Dynamite Red Crape Myrtle is a crape myrtle bred for true red flowers and resistance to powdery mildew. It blooms through the Valley summer, turns orange-red in fall and shows off peeling bark in winter. Below is what to expect, from size, water, sun and spacing to pruning and the questions homeowners ask most.
Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.
How big does Dynamite crape myrtle get?
Dynamite grows about 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide at a moderate pace. It is one of the smaller tree crape myrtles, which makes it easier to fit by a patio or entry.
Is Dynamite a true red crape myrtle?
Yes. It was bred for clear, true red flowers with no pink tone. The ruffled clusters open at the branch tips through the summer.
When do crape myrtles bloom in Arizona?
In the Valley, crape myrtles bloom from about June through September. They need summer heat to bloom. Snipping off spent clusters can bring another round.
How often do you water a crape myrtle in Phoenix?
It needs more water than a desert tree. Once it is rooted, soak it 2 to 3 feet deep every 1 to 2 weeks in summer and every 2 to 4 weeks in winter.
How far apart do you plant crape myrtles?
Space crape myrtles about 8 to 12 feet apart, center to center, for a row or group. For a single tree with its trunks on show, allow 12 feet or more to the next tree.
When should you prune crape myrtle in Arizona?
Prune in late winter while the tree is bare. Remove old seed pods and suckers and keep cuts light. Topping the trunks ruins the shape and forces weak shoots.
Why is my crape myrtle turning yellow?
Yellow new leaves with green veins point to iron trouble in alkaline Valley soil. Crape myrtle is prone to it. An iron product made for alkaline soil, applied in spring, is the usual fix.
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