Erik the Red Aloe
1 Gallon
$12.49
Photo coming

Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Erik the Red Aloe

Aloe 'Erik the Red'
Tall red winter flower spikes on a narrow, upright aloe
SunPart sun
WaterLow
BloomRed
Height5-7 ft
Width2-4 ft
Cold hardy25°F
USDA zones9-11
FloweringHummingbirdWinter bloomEvergreenSculptural form
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Results vary based on soil, season, sun, and watering. These reflect what this plant is capable of under good Arizona conditions.
1 GallonA young plant to grow on in a pot or bed.
5 GallonA fuller plant for a bed or container.
15 GallonOur largest size, for a focal point with more height from day one. Container class can vary slightly by crop, and when it does we send the larger size.
Sold out in every size right now. Request this plant and we'll do our best to source it for you, or reach out at (480) 620-4838.
$12.49
Straight from Arizona growers to your door.
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Questions? Reach us at (480) 620-4838 or hello@arizonaplantpeople.com.
Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.

Erik the Red Aloe is a large, upright aloe with long, dark green leaves edged in soft teeth. In winter it sends up tall spikes of scarlet red, tube-shaped flowers that hummingbirds visit. It grows about 5 to 7 feet tall and stays narrow, 2 to 4 feet wide. It makes a strong focal point in a bed or a large container.

Best for: a winter-blooming focal point, hummingbird gardens, narrow beds and large containers.

Where it works best in Arizona yards
Winter color
Scarlet red flower spikes
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Long spikes of scarlet red, tube-shaped flowers rise above the leaves in winter and last a long time. They bring color when most of the yard is quiet.

Hummingbird garden
Red tube flowers
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Hummingbirds come to aloe flowers through the cool season. Plant it where you can see the spikes from a window or patio.

Narrow beds and big pots
Tall but only 2 to 4 feet wide
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It grows about 5 to 7 feet tall but stays 2 to 4 feet wide, so it fits narrow beds. It also works as a specimen in a large container.

Where it struggles
Hard frost and soggy soil
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It is rated to about 25°F, so cover it on colder nights. Soil that stays wet can rot the roots.

These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
For this plant: Give it sun with some afternoon shade in summer, and soil that drains well. Once rooted, water about every 2 weeks in the warm months. Cover it on nights below about 25°F and cut spent flower stalks at the base.
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Not a good fit for mid elevation areas. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Not a good fit for the high desert. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Not a good fit for the mountains. See the plant check above for why.
Watering
Wait, root it, then every 2 weeks
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Hold off a few days to a week after planting, then water until new growth shows it has rooted. After that, water about every 2 weeks in the warm months and let the soil dry.

Summer sun
Afternoon shade in the Valley
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It takes full winter sun, but in summer it looks best with filtered or afternoon shade. Leaves that turn red or purple are a stress sign, so check sun and water.

Frost nights
Cover it when it freezes
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It is rated to about 25°F. On colder nights, drape frost cloth or a sheet to the ground, not plastic, and take it off in the morning. A tree canopy overhead helps too.

Flower stalks and pups
Cut stalks, divide clumps
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Cut each flower stalk at the base once it dries. It forms a stem as it grows, so give it room upward.

Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
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Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
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If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Sandy or rocky desert soil
Ideal
Fast drainage is what aloes need most.
Native desert soil
Well suited
Aloes grow in most soils that drain well.
Make sure water soaks away within a few minutes.
Clay or heavy soil
Prep required
Water sits in heavy soil and can rot the roots.
Work in coarse sand or gravel before planting.
Caliche
Prep required
Water cannot drain through a caliche layer.
Dig through the layer so the hole drains.
Containers
Ideal
Use a gritty cactus mix in a pot with a drainage hole.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.

How big does Erik the Red Aloe get?
It grows about 5 to 7 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide. It forms a stem and stays narrow, so it fits tighter spaces.

When does it bloom?
It blooms in winter into spring, with tall spikes of scarlet red flowers. The spikes last a long time.

Does it attract hummingbirds?
Yes. Hummingbirds visit its red tube flowers through the cool season.

How cold hardy is it?
It is rated to about 25°F. On colder nights, drape frost cloth or a sheet to the ground, not plastic, and remove it in the morning.

Does it need shade in Phoenix?
It takes full sun to part shade. In the Valley, most aloes look best with some filtered or afternoon shade in summer.

Are the leaf teeth sharp?
The teeth along the leaf edges are soft rather than sharp. Wear gloves anyway when you cut flower stalks or handle the leaves.

Does it die after it blooms?
No. Unlike most agaves, aloes keep living after they flower. Just cut the dry flower stalk off at the base.

How often should I water it?
Once rooted, water about every 2 weeks in the warm months and let the soil dry between drinks. Soggy soil can rot the roots.

Is it toxic to dogs and cats?
Yes. Aloe is toxic to dogs, cats and horses. Chewing the leaves can cause vomiting, diarrhea and lethargy, so keep pets from chewing it.

Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Erik the Red Aloe.
No tips here yet. If you've grown Erik the Red Aloe in an Arizona yard, use the "Love this plant?" box under the photo to share what worked. Approved tips show up here.

Erik the Red Aloe for sale in Arizona, delivered to you

Erik the Red Aloe is a tall, stem-forming aloe known for long-lasting red flower spikes in winter. Below is what to expect on size, sun, water, cold, flowers, hummingbirds and pets in a Valley yard.

Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.

Erik the Red Aloe in Phoenix

It grows well in the Valley in sun with some summer afternoon shade. It blooms in winter and is rated to about 25°F.

How tall does Erik the Red Aloe get?

It grows about 5 to 7 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide. Its narrow shape suits smaller yards.

When does Erik the Red bloom?

In winter into spring, with long-lasting spikes of scarlet red flowers.

Aloes for hummingbirds

Its red tube flowers draw hummingbirds in the cool season, when few other plants bloom.

Watering Erik the Red Aloe

Once rooted, water about every 2 weeks in the warm months and let the soil dry between drinks.

Is Erik the Red Aloe toxic to pets?

Yes. Aloe is toxic to dogs, cats and horses if chewed. Keep pets from chewing the leaves.

We deliver across the Valley, from Phoenix, Scottsdale and Mesa out to San Tan Valley, Maricopa and Casa Grande, and up to Prescott, Sedona, Payson and Globe. See delivery areas and rates.