Giant Lily Turf
5 Gallon
$22.49
Giant Lily Turf, 5 Gallon

Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Giant Lily Turf

Liriope gigantea
Evergreen grass-like border for shade
SunPart shade
WaterModerate
BloomLavender
Height2-3 ft
Width2-3 ft
Cold hardy0°F
USDA zones7-10
EvergreenFloweringPatio sizeSpineless
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Results vary based on soil, season, sun, and watering. These reflect what this plant is capable of under good Arizona conditions.
1 GallonThis is a young clump. It is a lower-cost way to plant a long shady border or a larger bed.
5 GallonA fuller clump with more presence at planting, for a finished look sooner or a single pot. Container class can vary slightly by crop, and when it does we send the larger size.
$22.49
Straight from Arizona growers to your door.
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Questions? Reach us at (480) 620-4838 or hello@arizonaplantpeople.com.
Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.

Giant Lily Turf brings lush, evergreen green to the shady spots in a Valley yard. It forms clumps of arching, dark green, grass-like leaves about 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Lavender-blue flower spikes rise above the leaves in summer, followed by blue berries. Use it to edge a walk or driveway in shade, fill a shady bed, or dress up a pot on a covered patio.

Best for: Edging walks and driveways in shade, a grass-like groundcover for full-shade beds, and pots on a shaded patio.

Where it works best in Arizona yards
Shady edging
Along walks and driveways
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Plant it as an evergreen edge along a walk, sidewalk or driveway that sits in shade. Each clump widens to about 2 to 3 feet, so set it back far enough that the arching leaves do not spill across the path. The leaves stay green all year.

Groundcover for full shade
Green where lawn struggles
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Mass it in a full-shade bed as a grass-like groundcover that needs no mowing. Each clump slowly widens to about 2 to 3 feet, so a planting fills in over time. It suits beds and edges better than play areas.

Pots on a covered patio
Container planting in shade
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It grows well in a container, so it can bring green to a covered patio or shaded entry. Use a pot with good drainage and water it on a regular schedule, since it wants more water than desert plants.

Where it struggles
Afternoon sun, salty soil, dry spells
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Hot afternoon sun and sun reflected off walls scorch the leaves in the Valley. Salty soil and water can brown the leaf tips, so mix plenty of organic matter into the planting area. It is not a low-water plant and needs regular water all year.

Needs may vary based on your yard layout, desired density, sun and shade, and any underground wiring or piping.
  • Groundcover or edging18 in apart, center to center
  • Mixed border30-36 in apart, center to center
Spacing calculator
How many plants fit in your bed or planting area?
These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
For this plant: Plant it in part to full shade. Hot afternoon sun and sun bounced off walls scorch the leaves in the Valley. Mix plenty of organic matter into the planting area and keep drainage good. Water it regularly, since it wants more water than most desert plants. Cut off old, tired leaves in late winter or early spring, before new growth starts.
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
At mid elevation the last frost usually comes between late March and late April; a later frost is possible.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month. Winter cold here is close to this plant's limit. Plant it in a warm spot and protect it in hard freezes.
In the high desert the last frost usually comes in early to mid May; frost is possible into late May or June.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Not a good fit for the mountains. See the plant check above for why.
Shade
Keep it out of afternoon sun
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Plant it in part to full shade. Hot afternoon sun and sun bounced off walls scorch the leaves in the Valley.

Watering
Regular, not desert-dry
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It wants more water than most desert plants. Water new plants regularly while they root, then keep watering on a regular schedule.

Late winter cleanup
Cut old leaves
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In late winter or early spring, before new growth, cut off old tired leaves close to the clump without damaging the crown.

Brown leaf tips
Salt and sun
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Salty soil and water often brown the leaf tips. Amend the planting area with organic matter and keep the plant in shade to help.

Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
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Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
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If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Amended garden soil
Ideal
Mix plenty of organic matter into the planting area.
Keep drainage good.
Plain desert soil
Prep required
Unamended Valley soil tends to build up salt.
Amend it before planting.
Heavy wet soil
Avoid
Poor drainage causes problems; keep it well drained.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.

Does Giant Lily Turf grow in shade?
Yes. It does best in part shade to full shade, and in the Valley shade is a must. Plant it where it is shaded from the afternoon sun, as an edge or a groundcover.

Can Giant Lily Turf take full sun in Phoenix?
It does not handle full sun well here. Hot afternoon sun scorches the leaves in summer, so plant it away from direct afternoon sun and sun reflected off walls.

How big does Giant Lily Turf get?
It forms clumps about 2 to 3 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. Give each clump that much room to fill, and expect the flower spikes to rise just above the leaves in summer.

Does it spread like grass?
No. It grows in clumps that slowly widen to about 2 to 3 feet across. Leave room for that width when you plant a border or a bed.

How much water does Giant Lily Turf need?
Give it moderate, regular water. It wants more water than most desert plants, so put it on a regular schedule and water new plants often while they get rooted.

What soil does it need?
Mix plenty of organic matter into the planting area and make sure it drains well. Plain Valley soil tends to build up salt, which browns the leaves.

Why are the leaf tips turning brown?
Salty soil and irrigation water are a common cause in the Valley, and afternoon sun scorches the leaves too. Amend the soil with organic matter and move or shade plants that get afternoon sun.

When should I cut back Giant Lily Turf?
Cut it back in late winter or early spring, before new growth starts. Trim the old, tired leaves close to the clump, and take care not to cut into the crown.

Does Giant Lily Turf flower?
Yes. Spikes of small lavender-blue flowers rise above the leaves in summer, and blue berries follow in fall. Trim off the old spikes when you cut back the leaves in late winter.

Is Giant Lily Turf toxic to dogs or cats?
Lilyturf is listed as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses. You do not need to keep it away from pets.

How cold hardy is Giant Lily Turf?
It is rated hardy to about 0°F, and some growers rate it colder. That is far colder than Valley winters get, so it needs no frost cover and keeps its green leaves all winter.

Giant Lily Turf vs Silvery Sunproof Liriope: which should I plant?
Giant Lily Turf is bigger, about 2 to 3 feet, with solid dark green leaves. Silvery Sunproof stays about 15 to 18 inches, has green and cream striped leaves, and takes more sun. Choose Giant Lily Turf for shade and Silvery Sunproof for a sunnier edge.

When is the best time to plant it?
Plant it in fall or early spring, when the weather is mild. Water it often for the first few weeks so the roots settle in before the summer heat.

Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Giant Lily Turf.
No tips here yet. If you've grown Giant Lily Turf in an Arizona yard, use the "Love this plant?" box under the photo to share what worked. Approved tips show up here.

Giant Lily Turf for sale in Arizona, delivered to you

Giant Lily Turf is the large liriope. It forms evergreen clumps of arching, dark green, grass-like leaves 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. In summer it sends up lavender-blue flower spikes, followed by blue berries. Valley homeowners use it to edge walks and driveways in shade and to fill shady beds. Below is what to expect on sun, water, soil, size and upkeep.

Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.

Giant Lily Turf for shade in Phoenix

Giant Lily Turf is a large liriope with evergreen clumps of arching, dark green, grass-like leaves. In the Valley it is a plant for shade. People use it to edge walks and driveways in shady spots and as a groundcover in full-shade beds.

How much sun can Giant Lily Turf take in Arizona?

Part shade to full shade is best. Summer afternoon sun scorches the leaves, and so does sun reflected off walls. Pick a spot shaded from the afternoon sun.

How big does Giant Lily Turf get?

Each clump grows about 2 to 3 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. Lavender-blue flower spikes rise above the leaves in summer. The clumps widen slowly rather than running like lawn grass.

How often should you water Giant Lily Turf?

Give it moderate, regular water. It needs more water than most desert plants and is not a low-water choice in the Valley. Amend the soil with organic matter and keep drainage good.

Is Giant Lily Turf a good shade lawn substitute?

In full shade it can stand in for lawn as a grass-like groundcover that needs no mowing. It suits beds and edges better than play areas. Plan on regular water, as with a lawn.

When do you cut back Giant Lily Turf?

Cut back the old, tired leaves in late winter or early spring, before new growth starts. Keep the cut above the crown. Otherwise it is a low-upkeep plant.

Giant Lily Turf vs Silvery Sunproof Liriope

Giant Lily Turf grows 2 to 3 feet with solid dark green leaves. Silvery Sunproof stays about 15 to 18 inches with green and cream striped leaves. Silvery Sunproof handles more sun than other liriope.

We deliver across the Valley, from Phoenix, Scottsdale and Mesa out to San Tan Valley, Maricopa and Casa Grande, and up to Prescott, Sedona, Payson and Globe. See delivery areas and rates.