Giant Prickly Pear
5 Gallon
$33.49
Giant Prickly Pear, 25 Gallon, Arizona Plant People
Giant Prickly Pear, 25 Gallon, Arizona Plant People
Giant Prickly Pear 15 Gallon
Giant Prickly Pear, 5 Gallon

Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Giant Prickly Pear

Opuntia robusta
Dinner-plate pads in silvery blue
SunFull sun
WaterLow
BloomYellow
Height3-8 ft
Width6-10 ft
Cold hardy20°F
USDA zones9-11
Sculptural formEdibleFloweringPollinatorEvergreen
Found on 8 Valley community plant lists. Check with your community or HOA. Requirements are subject to change.
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Results vary based on soil, season, sun, and watering. These reflect what this plant is capable of under good Arizona conditions.
1 GallonA young plant with a pad or two, a budget way to start one.
5 GallonA few pads to start, for a desert bed that will fill in over time.
15 GallonA fuller plant with the big round pads already showing.
25 GallonOur largest size, a bold clump for a focal spot at planting. Container class can vary slightly by crop, and when it does we send the larger size.
$33.49
Straight from Arizona growers to your door.
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Questions? Reach us at (480) 620-4838 or hello@arizonaplantpeople.com.
Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.

Giant Prickly Pear is known for its huge, round, silvery-blue pads, some over a foot across, joined at sharp angles. Bright yellow flowers line the pad edges in spring, followed by large red to purple fruit. Both the fruit and young pads are eaten. It grows into a broad clump 3 to 8 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet across, on little water once rooted.

Best for: bold accents in large desert yards, cactus gardens that need a big blue focal plant, and anyone who wants prickly pear fruit and pads. It needs little water once rooted.

Where it works best in Arizona yards
Bold desert accent
Blue pads a foot across
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Its round, silvery-blue pads grow over a foot wide, so it makes a bold accent. Give it a spot 6 to 10 feet wide in a large desert bed.

Fruit and pads
Food from the yard
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Large red to purple fruit follows the spring flowers and is eaten fresh or made into jam, jelly and juice. Young pads are cooked, roasted or boiled.

Bees and birds
Wildlife in a dry corner
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Bees work the bright yellow flowers in spring. Birds feed on the fruit. It asks for little water once rooted, so it suits a dry, sunny corner.

Where it struggles
Tight spots and wet soil
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It grows wide and its stems can root where they touch the ground, so it crowds small yards. Spines up to 2 inches and glochids make it a poor fit near paths. Wet soil rots the roots.

Needs may vary based on your yard layout, desired density, sun and shade, and any underground wiring or piping.
  • Screen or barrier6 ft apart
  • Looser row8 ft apart
Spacing calculator
How many plants fit in your bed or planting area?
These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
For this plant: Give it full sun and fast-draining soil. Water every 2 weeks the first summer. Once rooted, soak once or twice a month in summer and little or none in winter. Give it room to spread.
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month. Winter cold here can hurt this plant, so spring after the last frost is the safer time to plant.
At mid elevation the last frost usually comes between late March and late April; a later frost is possible.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Not a good fit for the high desert. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Not a good fit for the mountains. See the plant check above for why.
Watering
Deep soaks, then dry
↓

Wait about a week after planting before the first water, then water every other week while nights stay above 60°F. Once rooted, soak it once or twice a month in summer to keep pads full. Give it little or no water in winter.

Frost
Covers for hard freezes
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It is rated to about 20°F and handles cold best in dry soil. Cover young plants with frost cloth on a hard freeze night.

Fruit and pads
Harvest with tongs
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Pick ripe red to purple fruit in summer with tongs and gloves, twisting it off. Scrape spines and glochids off young pads before cooking.

Pruning
Whole pads at the joint
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It spreads wide and stems can root where they touch the ground. Cut off whole pads at the joint to keep it in bounds.

Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
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Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
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If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Native desert soil
Ideal
Backfill with the native soil you dug out.
Skip compost and other rich amendments.
Sandy or rocky soil
Well suited
Sandy, silty or gravelly soil drains fast, which it needs.
Clay soil
Prep required
Loosen it with coarse sand or pumice before planting.
Water that puddles for more than a few minutes rots the roots.
Caliche
Prep required
Break through or remove a caliche layer so water drains away.
If you cannot break through, pick another spot.
Rock or gravel over soil
Ideal
Gravel on the surface suits it and steadies a new plant.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.

How big does giant prickly pear get?
It usually grows 3 to 8 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet across. It can grow taller with support. Its stems can root where they touch the ground, which widens the clump.

How big are the pads?
The round pads can grow over a foot across. They are silvery blue to blue-gray and join at sharp angles.

Does it have spines?
Yes. The spines are few but can be 1 to 2 inches long, and the pads and fruit carry glochids, tiny barbed hairs. Handle it with thick gloves and tongs.

Is the fruit edible?
Yes. The large red to purple fruit is eaten fresh or made into jam, jelly and juice. Pick it with tongs and gloves, twist it off, and remove the glochids before peeling.

Can you eat the pads?
Yes. Young pads are eaten roasted or boiled. Scrape off the spines and glochids with a knife, then peel.

How cold can it take?
It is rated to about 20°F. It handles cold best when the soil is kept dry. Frost cloth that reaches the ground helps a young plant on a hard freeze night.

How often should I water it?
Water a new plant about every 2 weeks through its first summer. Once rooted, a soak once or twice a month in summer keeps pads full. Give little or none in winter.

Does it need full sun?
It does best in full sun and also takes part sun. A newly planted cactus can sunburn in its first summer, so light shade cloth helps that first year.

When does it bloom?
Bright yellow flowers open along the upper pad edges in spring. The fruit ripens in summer.

Does it attract wildlife?
Yes. Native bees visit the flowers and birds eat the fruit.

Giant prickly pear vs Indian fig: which one?
Both are large with edible fruit. Giant prickly pear has round, silvery-blue pads and takes more cold. Indian fig grows tree-like to 10 to 15 feet with green pads and few spines.

Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Giant Prickly Pear.
No tips here yet. If you've grown Giant Prickly Pear in an Arizona yard, use the "Love this plant?" box under the photo to share what worked. Approved tips show up here.

Giant Prickly Pear for sale in Arizona, delivered to you

Giant Prickly Pear is a big prickly pear from Mexico with round, silvery-blue pads. People grow it as a bold accent and for its yellow flowers and edible red fruit. This page covers what to expect in a Valley yard: size, sun, water, cold, fruit and handling.

Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.

How big does Opuntia robusta get?

Plan for about 3 to 8 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet across. It can grow taller with support. The round pads alone can grow over a foot wide.

Why is it called the wheel cactus?

Its pads are nearly round and very large, like wheels or dinner plates. They are silvery blue to blue-gray.

Can you eat giant prickly pear fruit?

Yes. The large red to purple fruit is eaten fresh or made into jam, jelly and juice. Remove the glochids before you peel it.

How often do you water giant prickly pear in Phoenix?

Water a new plant about every 2 weeks through its first summer. Once rooted, soak it once or twice a month in summer. Give little or none in winter.

How cold hardy is Opuntia robusta?

It is rated to about 20°F, and handles cold best in dry soil. Cover young plants with frost cloth on hard freeze nights.

Giant prickly pear vs Indian fig

Both are big prickly pears with edible fruit. Giant prickly pear has round, silvery-blue pads and more cold hardiness. Indian fig is tree-like with green pads and few spines.

We deliver across the Valley, from Phoenix, Scottsdale and Mesa out to San Tan Valley, Maricopa and Casa Grande, and up to Prescott, Sedona, Payson and Globe. See delivery areas and rates.