Katy Apricot
15 Gallon
$138.49
Katy Apricot 15 Gallon
Katy Apricot 15 Gallon
Katy Apricot 25 Gallon

Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Katy Apricot

Prunus armeniaca 'Katy'
Large, sweet apricots ripe by early June
SunFull sun
WaterModerate
BloomWhite
Height12-15 ft
Width10-12 ft
Cold hardy0°F
USDA zones7-9
EdibleFloweringPollinatorDeciduousWinter bloom
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Results vary based on soil, season, sun, and watering. These reflect what this plant is capable of under good Arizona conditions.
15 GallonA young apricot tree ready to plant and train into an open, vase-shaped tree. It fits most backyard planting holes.
25 GallonA larger, more developed tree for a fuller start in the yard. Container class can vary slightly by crop, and when it does we send the larger size.
$138.49
Straight from Arizona growers to your door.
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Questions? Reach us at (480) 620-4838 or hello@arizonaplantpeople.com.
Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.

Katy is a favorite apricot for warm-winter climates, with large, flavorful freestone fruit that is sweet rather than tart when ripened on the tree. It ripens early, from late May into early June in the low desert, ahead of the worst summer heat. It sets fruit on its own, so one tree is enough. White to pinkish blossoms open in late winter and feed bees.

Best for: an early homegrown apricot crop, a single self-fruitful fruit tree in the backyard, and late-winter blossoms for bees.

Where it works best in Arizona yards
An early apricot harvest
Ripe late May to early June
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Katy ripens from late May into early June in the low desert, before the hottest weeks of summer. The large freestone fruit is sweet and not tart when picked ripe, and it works fresh, canned or dried.

One tree is enough
Self-fruitful
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Katy sets fruit with its own pollen, so you do not need a second apricot. Give it a sunny spot with about 15 to 20 feet between it and other fruit trees.

Late-winter blossoms
Early flowers that feed bees
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White to pinkish blossoms open in late winter, ahead of the leaves. Bees work the flowers, and good bee visits during bloom help the tree set a full crop.

Where it struggles
Warm winters, bloom frost, sunburn
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Katy needs about 300 to 400 chill hours, near the top of what the Valley gets. A warm winter can mean a lighter crop. A frost during bloom can take the flowers, and the trunk sunburns without white paint.

Needs may vary based on your yard layout, desired density, sun and shade, and any underground wiring or piping.
  • Row of fruit trees15 ft apart
  • Open planting15-20 ft apart
Spacing calculator
How many plants fit in your bed or planting area?
These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
For this plant: Plant in full sun in soil that drains. Water deep every 1 to 2 weeks while it grows and about monthly in winter. Prune while bare before the buds break, feed in early spring, and paint the trunk white. Cover the tree on frost nights while it blooms.
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
The colors show how much effort getting a plant rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
At mid elevation the last frost usually comes between late March and late April; a later frost is possible.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
No data Not enough sources cover this month here yet.
The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month. Winter cold here is close to this plant's limit. Plant it in a warm spot and protect it in hard freezes.
In the high desert the last frost usually comes in early to mid May; frost is possible into late May or June.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Not a good fit for the mountains. See the plant check above for why.
Watering
Deep and steady while it grows
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Soak the root zone at least 18 inches deep about every 1 to 2 weeks while the tree is growing and fruiting. Water about once a month in winter. Let the top few inches dry between soaks.

Pruning
While bare, open center
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Prune while the tree is bare, before the buds break. Train it to an open, vase-shaped center and remove crossing and dead branches. Take off no more than about one-third in a year.

Frost at bloom
Cover the blossoms on cold nights
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Apricots bloom early, so a late frost can take the flowers. On frost nights, drape frost cloth over the tree down to the ground at the branch tips. Take it off in the morning.

Feeding and thinning
Early spring feed, thin heavy crops
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Feed in late winter or early spring, just before growth starts. On a heavy crop, thin the small fruit so they sit about 2 to 6 inches apart.

Sunburn and mulch
Paint the trunk, mulch the roots
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Paint the trunk and lower branches with white tree paint to prevent sunburn. Spread 3 to 4 inches of mulch over the root zone, keeping it a few inches off the trunk.

Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
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Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
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If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Native desert soil
Well suited
Plant in native soil that drains well.
Backfill with native, unamended soil. Dig wide, only as deep as the roots.
Sandy or rocky soil
Well suited
Sandy, well-drained soil suits stone fruit.
Water deep, at least 18 inches, so roots grow down.
Clay soil
Manageable
Dig wide and backfill with the native soil you removed.
Water deep, then let the top of the soil dry before the next watering.
Caliche
Prep required
Dig through the caliche layer so the planting hole drains.
Mulch around the tree
Helpful
Mulch the root zone 3 to 4 inches deep to hold moisture.
Keep mulch a few inches off the trunk.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.

Will Katy apricot fruit in Phoenix?
Yes, it is one of the apricots grown in the Valley. It needs about 300 to 400 chill hours, and most of the low desert gets about 300 to 400 a year. Cooler winters bring heavier crops.

When does Katy apricot ripen?
It ripens early, from late May into early June in the low desert. Let the fruit ripen on the tree, when it is sweet rather than tart.

Do I need two apricot trees for fruit?
No. Katy is self-fruitful, so a single tree sets fruit on its own.

Is Katy a freestone apricot?
Yes. The flesh pulls cleanly off the pit, so the large fruit is easy to eat fresh, can or dry.

How big does it get and how far apart should I plant it?
Plan on about 12 to 15 feet tall and 10 to 12 feet wide. Space it about 15 to 20 feet from other fruit trees. The Spacing tab shows both.

How often should I water an apricot tree?
Water deep, at least 18 inches, about every 1 to 2 weeks while it is growing and fruiting. Water about once a month in winter, and let the top few inches dry between soaks.

When and how should I prune an apricot?
Prune while the tree is bare, before the buds break in winter. Train it to an open, vase-shaped center, remove crossing and dead branches, and take off no more than about one-third in a year.

Should I thin the fruit?
Yes, on a heavy crop. Thin the small fruit soon after it sets so they sit about 2 to 6 inches apart, and the fruit left on grows larger.

How do I protect the blossoms from frost?
Apricots bloom early, so a late frost can take the flowers. On frost nights, drape frost cloth over the tree down to the ground at the branch tips, and take it off in the morning.

When should I fertilize an apricot?
Feed in late winter or early spring, just before the tree starts growing.

Does the trunk need protection from sun?
Yes. Paint the trunk and lower branches with white tree paint to prevent sunburn.

Are apricot leaves and pits safe for pets?
No. The stems, leaves and pits contain cyanide compounds that are toxic to dogs, cats and horses. Pick up fallen fruit and pits, and call your vet if a pet chews them.

Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Katy Apricot.
No tips here yet. If you've grown Katy Apricot in an Arizona yard, use the "Love this plant?" box under the photo to share what worked. Approved tips show up here.

Katy Apricot for sale in Arizona, delivered to you

Katy Apricot is a self-fruitful apricot bred for warm winters, with large freestone fruit that ripens in late May and early June. Below is what to expect, including chill hours, harvest time, size, spacing, watering, pruning, thinning and protecting the blossoms.

Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.

Best apricot trees for Phoenix

Katy is one of the apricots grown in the Valley. It needs about 300 to 400 chill hours, sets fruit on its own and ripens before the summer heat.

When do apricots ripen in Arizona?

Katy ripens from late May into early June in the low desert. The large freestone fruit is sweet and not tart when ripened on the tree.

Is Katy apricot self-pollinating?

Yes. Katy is self-fruitful, so one tree sets fruit without a second apricot nearby.

How far apart to plant apricot trees

Space apricot trees about 15 to 20 feet apart. Katy grows about 12 to 15 feet tall and 10 to 12 feet wide.

Pruning apricot trees in the Valley

Prune while the tree is bare, before the buds break. Keep an open, vase-shaped center and take off no more than about one-third in a year.

Why is my apricot tree not fruiting?

The common causes are frost during bloom, too few bees while it blooms, water stress, or a winter without enough chill. Cover the blossoms on frost nights and water on a steady schedule.

We deliver across the Valley, from Phoenix, Scottsdale and Mesa out to San Tan Valley, Maricopa and Casa Grande, and up to Prescott, Sedona, Payson and Globe. See delivery areas and rates.