Lucky Cactus
15 Gallon
$177.49
Lucky Cactus
Lucky Cactus
Lucky Cactus
Lucky Cactus, 5 Gallon
Lucky Cactus 15 Gallon
Lucky Cactus 15 Gallon

Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Lucky Cactus

Euphorbia ingens
A tall green candelabra for a filtered-sun spot
SunPart sun
WaterLow
BloomYellow
Height10-20 ft
Width10-20 ft
Cold hardy30°F
USDA zones10a-11
Sculptural formPatio sizeEvergreen
! Plant safety. The milky sap irritates skin and is toxic if eaten. Sap in the eyes can cause a serious eye injury. Wear gloves, long sleeves and eye protection when planting or cutting it. Get medical care right away if sap gets in an eye. Keep children and pets from chewing or breaking the stems.
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Results vary based on soil, season, sun, and watering. These reflect what this plant is capable of under good Arizona conditions.
5 GallonA young plant for a patio pot, or to grow on in a bed.
15 GallonA taller start for a focal spot or a large container.
25 GallonOur largest size, for the most height from day one. Container class can vary slightly by crop, and when it does we send the larger size.
$177.49
Straight from Arizona growers to your door.
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Questions? Reach us at (480) 620-4838 or hello@arizonaplantpeople.com.
Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.

Lucky cactus is a tall, candelabra-shaped euphorbia that gives a Valley yard a bold, upright centerpiece on little water. Thick, winged green stems branch upward over time and can reach 10 to 20 feet. It grows well in filtered sun and in large patio containers. Use it as a focal point or a tall accent in a big pot.

Best for: A bold focal point with afternoon shade, a tall accent in a large patio pot, or a low-water bed.

Where it works best in Arizona yards
Focal point
A tall candelabra
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Its thick, upright stems branch into a candelabra 10 to 20 feet tall over time. In the Valley, set it where it gets filtered sun or shelter from the hot western afternoon sun.

Large patio pot
Container grown
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It grows well in a large container on a patio. Use a well-drained mix and a pot with a drainage hole.

Low-water bed
Infrequent summer water
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Once it is rooted, it gets by on little water. Water infrequently in the warm months, let the soil dry between waterings, and keep it on the dry side in winter.

Where it struggles
Hot western sun, frost, thorns and sap
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Intense western summer sun is hard on it, and it takes only light frost, about 28 to 30°F. Small paired thorns line the ribs, and the milky sap is very toxic.

These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
For this plant: Plant it in well-drained soil where it gets filtered sun or shade from the hot western afternoon sun. Water it infrequently in the warm months and let the soil dry between waterings. Keep it on the dry side in winter. Cover it on frost nights near 30°F. Wear gloves, long sleeves and eye protection when you handle it (see the safety note).
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
The colors show how much effort getting a plant rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Not a good fit for mid elevation areas. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Not a good fit for the high desert. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Not a good fit for the mountains. See the plant check above for why.
Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
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Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
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If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Watering and ongoing care
General schedule plus a simple test
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First two weeks. In the Valley, water every 1 to 2 days in summer and every 3 to 4 days in the cooler months. Always water deeply, slow and long enough that moisture soaks down to the root zone, not just the surface.

After that, taper gradually. Stretch slowly to about every 7 days in summer, or every 10 to 14 days in the cooler months, by week 8. Higher and cooler areas water less often. See how to water new plants for your area and plant type.

Read the soil, not a schedule. Push a long screwdriver into the soil about an hour after watering. It slides easily through wet soil and stops at dry soil. Once a plant is rooted, water again when it will not go in more than 3 to 4 inches.

Fertilizer. Most desert-adapted plants establish without heavy feeding. Too much fertilizer pushes soft, leggy growth.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Native desert soil
Ideal
Best for backfill. Most desert plants grow well in it as long as it drains.
Backfill with native soil. No amendments needed.
Sandy or rocky soil
Well suited
Handles sandy and rocky soil well. Root rot risk is low.
Dries out faster, so check soil moisture more often while it settles in.
Clay or clay loam
Manageable
Grows well here if water drains between soakings.
Clay holds water long after watering, and roots that stay wet can rot, so run the drainage test before planting.
Caliche layer
Prep required
Unbroken caliche keeps water from draining, and roots that sit wet can rot.
See caliche prep above before planting.
Deep caliche
Most prep needed
Cannot be broken through. Without prep, drainage failure is likely over time.
Holes often cannot reach through a very thick layer. Plant on a raised mound of soil like your native soil, or pick a spot that drains.
Rock or decomposed granite
Needs soil layer
No moisture retention. Will not establish without a workable soil layer underneath.
Clear plastic or weed cloth from the planting spot and bring in soil close in texture to your native soil before planting.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.

How big does lucky cactus get?
In the ground it can reach about 10 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 20 feet wide. In its native Africa it grows much taller, 30 feet or more.

How fast does lucky cactus grow?
It grows at a moderate to fast pace. With age it forms a tight, upright candelabra.

Is lucky cactus a real cactus?
No. It is a euphorbia, more closely related to poinsettias than to cactus. Break a stem and it bleeds milky sap, which cactus do not.

Does lucky cactus have thorns?
Yes. Small thorns grow in pairs along its winged ribs, so wear gloves when you handle it.

Is the sap dangerous?
Yes. The milky sap is very toxic. It can cause severe skin irritation, and in the eyes it can cause blindness. Wear gloves, long sleeves and eye protection when you handle or cut it.

Is lucky cactus toxic to dogs and cats?
Yes. The sap is toxic if eaten and irritates the mouth and stomach. Keep pets from chewing or breaking the stems.

Does lucky cactus need full sun in Phoenix?
No. In the Valley it does best in filtered sun or part shade. Protect it from the intense western afternoon sun in summer.

How cold can lucky cactus take?
It takes light frost only, down to about 28 to 30°F for short spells. On the coldest nights, cover it with frost cloth or a sheet, not plastic.

How often should I water lucky cactus?
Water it infrequently in the warm months and let the soil dry between waterings. Keep it on the dry side in winter. Soggy soil can rot the roots.

Does lucky cactus flower?
Yes. Small, waxy yellow flowers form along the rib edges near the top of the stems. They show in fall and winter.

Can lucky cactus grow in a pot?
Yes. It is grown in large containers on patios. Use a well-drained mix and a pot with a drainage hole.

Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Lucky Cactus.
No tips here yet. If you've grown Lucky Cactus in an Arizona yard, use the "Love this plant?" box under the photo to share what worked. Approved tips show up here.

Lucky Cactus for sale in Arizona, delivered to you

Lucky cactus, also called candelabra tree, is a tree-like euphorbia from southern Africa. Its thick, winged green stems branch upward into a candelabra shape. Below is what to expect on size, sun, water, cold and pots in a Valley yard.

Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.

Lucky cactus in Phoenix yards

Lucky cactus, also called candelabra tree, is a tree-like euphorbia from southern Africa. Its thick, winged green stems branch upward into a candelabra. Valley homeowners use it as a focal point and in large patio pots.

How big does a candelabra tree get?

In the ground it can reach about 10 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 20 feet wide. It grows at a moderate to fast pace and forms a tight, upright candelabra with age.

Is lucky cactus a real cactus?

No. It is a euphorbia, more closely related to poinsettias than to cactus. Small thorns grow in pairs along its ribs, and a broken stem bleeds milky sap. True cactus do not have milky sap.

Lucky cactus sun in Phoenix

In the Valley it does best in filtered sun or part shade. Give it protection from the intense western afternoon sun in summer.

How cold can lucky cactus get in Arizona?

It takes light frost only, to about 28 to 30°F for short spells. On the coldest nights, cover it with frost cloth or a sheet draped to the ground. Take the cover off in the morning.

Watering lucky cactus in the Valley

Water it infrequently in the warm months and let the soil dry between waterings. Keep it on the dry side in winter. Soggy soil can rot the roots.

Growing lucky cactus in a pot

It grows well in a large patio container. Use a well-drained mix and a pot with a drainage hole.

We deliver across the Valley, from Phoenix, Scottsdale and Mesa out to San Tan Valley, Maricopa and Casa Grande, and up to Prescott, Sedona, Payson and Globe. See delivery areas and rates.