Neocardinacea neocardensis
1 Gallon
$14.49
Neocardinacea neocardensis, 15 Gallon

Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Neocardinacea neocardensis

Sun
Water
Height
Width
Cold hardy
USDA zones
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Sold out in every size right now. Request this plant and we'll do our best to source it for you, or reach out at (480) 620-4838.
$14.49
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Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.
These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
The colors show how much effort getting a plant rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Not a good fit for mid elevation areas. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Not a good fit for the high desert. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Not a good fit for the mountains. See the plant check above for why.
Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
↓

Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
↓

If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Watering and ongoing care
General schedule plus a simple test
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First two weeks. In the Valley, water every 1 to 2 days in summer and every 3 to 4 days in the cooler months. Always water deeply, slow and long enough that moisture soaks down to the root zone, not just the surface.

After that, taper gradually. Stretch slowly to about every 7 days in summer, or every 10 to 14 days in the cooler months, by week 8. Higher and cooler areas water less often. See how to water new plants for your area and plant type.

Read the soil, not a schedule. Push a long screwdriver into the soil about an hour after watering. It slides easily through wet soil and stops at dry soil. Once a plant is rooted, water again when it will not go in more than 3 to 4 inches.

Fertilizer. Most desert-adapted plants establish without heavy feeding. Too much fertilizer pushes soft, leggy growth.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Native desert soil
Ideal
Best for backfill. Most desert plants grow well in it as long as it drains.
Backfill with native soil. No amendments needed.
Sandy or rocky soil
Well suited
Handles sandy and rocky soil well. Root rot risk is low.
Dries out faster, so check soil moisture more often while it settles in.
Clay or clay loam
Manageable
Grows well here if water drains between soakings.
Clay holds water long after watering, and roots that stay wet can rot, so run the drainage test before planting.
Caliche layer
Prep required
Unbroken caliche keeps water from draining, and roots that sit wet can rot.
See caliche prep above before planting.
Deep caliche
Most prep needed
Cannot be broken through. Without prep, drainage failure is likely over time.
Holes often cannot reach through a very thick layer. Plant on a raised mound of soil like your native soil, or pick a spot that drains.
Rock or decomposed granite
Needs soil layer
No moisture retention. Will not establish without a workable soil layer underneath.
Clear plastic or weed cloth from the planting spot and bring in soil close in texture to your native soil before planting.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.
Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Neocardinacea neocardensis.
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