Orange Chiffon Prickly Pear
5 Gallon
$33.49
Photo coming

Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Orange Chiffon Prickly Pear

Opuntia 'Orange Chiffon'
A nearly spineless prickly pear with soft orange flowers
SunFull sun
WaterLow
BloomOrange
Height1-2 ft
Width4 ft
Cold hardy-20°F
USDA zones5-10
FloweringPollinatorEvergreen
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Results vary based on soil, season, sun, and watering. These reflect what this plant is capable of under good Arizona conditions.
5 GallonA young plant for a bed or rock garden.
15 GallonOur largest size, a fuller plant for more flowers sooner. Container class can vary slightly by crop, and when it does we send the larger size.
Sold out in every size right now. Request this plant and we'll do our best to source it for you, or reach out at (480) 620-4838.
$33.49
Straight from Arizona growers to your door.
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Questions? Reach us at (480) 620-4838 or hello@arizonaplantpeople.com.
Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.

Orange Chiffon Prickly Pear is a low, spreading prickly pear with bright green pads that are nearly free of long spines. In spring it bursts into masses of large, soft orange flowers. The pads turn purple in cold weather and green again with warmth. It grows about 1 to 2 feet tall and spreads to around 4 feet, and it takes hard freezes and long dry spells.

Best for: low, spreading color at the front of a desert bed, rock gardens, and sunny slopes.

Where it works best in Arizona yards
Front of a desert bed
Low and spreading
↓

It grows about 1 to 2 feet tall and spreads to around 4 feet, a low mound for the front of a bed or a rock garden.

Spring color
Soft orange flowers
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Masses of large, soft orange flowers cover the pads in spring, and bees come to visit them.

Winter color
Pads turn purple in cold
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The bright green pads turn purple in cold weather and green again in spring.

Where it struggles
Glochids and wet soil
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It has few long spines, but it still carries glochids, tiny barbed hairs that come off at a touch. Standing water and wet soil rot it.

Needs may vary based on your yard layout, desired density, sun and shade, and any underground wiring or piping.
  • Tight group3 ft apart
  • Plant to plant3-4 ft apart
Spacing calculator
How many plants fit in your bed or planting area?
These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
For this plant: Plant it in full sun and fast-draining soil. Once rooted, give it a deep soak every 2 to 4 weeks in summer and keep it dry in winter. Even with few spines, handle it with gloves for the glochids.
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
At mid elevation the last frost usually comes between late March and late April; a later frost is possible.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
In the high desert the last frost usually comes in early to mid May; frost is possible into late May or June.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
In the mountains the last frost usually comes between late May and late June.
Watering
Deep soaks, then dry
↓

Wait about a week after planting before the first water, then water about every other week through the first summer. Once rooted, a deep soak every 2 to 4 weeks in summer is plenty, with little or none in winter.

Handling and pruning
Gloves and tongs
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Wear thick leather gloves and use tongs or folded newspaper. To keep it in bounds, cut whole pads off at the joint with long-handled loppers.

Frost nights
Cover it when it freezes
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It can be damaged below about -20°F. On frost nights, cover it with frost cloth or a sheet that reaches the ground, not plastic, and take it off in the morning.

Feeding
Little or none
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It needs little or no fertilizer. If you feed it, use a light, diluted feeding in spring or early summer, never in fall or winter.

Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
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Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
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If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Native desert soil
Ideal
Backfill with the native soil you dug out.
Leave out compost and other rich amendments.
Sandy or rocky soil
Ideal
Sandy or gravelly soil drains fast, which cacti need.
Clay soil
Prep required
Loosen heavy soil with coarse sand or pumice before planting.
Water must never puddle around the plant.
Caliche
Prep required
Break through a caliche layer so water drains away.
If you cannot get through it, choose another spot.
Containers
Well suited
Use a gritty cactus mix and a pot with a drainage hole.
Let the mix dry out completely between waterings.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.

Is Orange Chiffon spineless?
It is nearly spineless, with very few long spines, but the pads carry glochids, tiny barbed hairs that come off at a touch. Handle it with thick gloves and tongs.

When does it bloom?
In spring, with masses of large, soft orange flowers.

Why are the pads turning purple?
Cold weather turns the green pads purple. They green up again when it warms, so there is nothing to fix.

How big does it get?
About 1 to 2 feet tall and around 4 feet wide as it spreads.

How often should I water it?
Once rooted, a deep soak every 2 to 4 weeks in summer is plenty. Keep it dry in winter, and never let water stand around it.

How cold can it take?
It is rated to about -20°F, so a Valley winter will not hurt it.

Does it attract bees?
Yes. Bees visit prickly pear flowers, and some native cactus bees feed almost only on prickly pear and cholla.

How do I remove glochids from my skin?
Press tape over them and pull it off, or spread a thin layer of white glue, let it dry and peel it away.

Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Orange Chiffon Prickly Pear.
No tips here yet. If you've grown Orange Chiffon Prickly Pear in an Arizona yard, use the "Love this plant?" box under the photo to share what worked. Approved tips show up here.

Orange Chiffon Prickly Pear for sale in Arizona, delivered to you

Orange Chiffon Prickly Pear is a nearly spineless, cold-hardy prickly pear grown for its soft orange flowers. This page covers size, flowers, color change, water, cold and handling in the Valley.

Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.

What is Orange Chiffon prickly pear?

It is a low, nearly spineless prickly pear grown for masses of soft orange spring flowers.

How big does Orange Chiffon get?

About 1 to 2 feet tall and around 4 feet wide.

Why Orange Chiffon turns purple

The pads turn purple in cold weather and green again with warmth.

Watering Orange Chiffon in Phoenix

Once rooted, a deep soak every 2 to 4 weeks in summer and dry soil in winter.

Is Orange Chiffon cold hardy?

Yes, to about -20°F.

Nearly spineless, still glochids

Handle it with gloves and tongs, since the glochids come off at a touch.

We deliver across the Valley, from Phoenix, Scottsdale and Mesa out to San Tan Valley, Maricopa and Casa Grande, and up to Prescott, Sedona, Payson and Globe. See delivery areas and rates.