Variegated Boxwood Beauty
5 Gallon
$22.99
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Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Variegated Boxwood Beauty

Carissa macrocarpa (variegated form)
Cream-edged leaves on a natal plum
SunFull sun
WaterLow
BloomWhite
Height1-3 ft
Width2-6 ft
Cold hardy26°F
USDA zones9b-11
EvergreenFloweringFragrant
Found on 24 Valley community plant lists. Check with your community or HOA. Requirements are subject to change.
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Results vary based on soil, season, sun, and watering. These reflect what this plant is capable of under good Arizona conditions.
5 GallonA young variegated plant for a pot, an entry bed or a short border. Container class can vary slightly by crop, and when it does we send the larger size.
Sold out in every size right now. Request this plant and we'll do our best to source it for you, or reach out at (480) 620-4838.
$22.99
Straight from Arizona growers to your door.
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Questions? Reach us at (480) 620-4838 or hello@arizonaplantpeople.com.
Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.

Variegated Boxwood Beauty is a variegated natal plum, with glossy leaves edged and splashed in cream to yellow. Like other natal plums it opens fragrant, white, star-shaped flowers with a jasmine-like scent, and it keeps its leaves all year. It is grown for the lighter leaf color, which brightens an entry or a pot next to darker green shrubs.

Best for: pots and entry beds where cream-edged leaves brighten darker greens, and low borders with a little afternoon shade.

Where it works best in Arizona yards
Pots and entries
Light leaves by the door
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The cream to yellow edges on the glossy leaves brighten an entry or a patio pot, most of all next to dark green shrubs.

Fragrant flowers
White stars with a jasmine scent
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White, star-shaped flowers with a jasmine-like scent open through much of the year. Plant it where you pass by.

Sun with some afternoon shade
Sun is best
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Natal plum grows best in sun and gets sparse in full shade. A little shade on the hottest summer afternoons helps prevent leaf scorch.

Where it struggles
Soggy soil and hard frost
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New leaves yellow and roots can rot when alkaline soil stays wet. Leaves are injured in the mid to upper 20s, so cover young plants on the coldest nights.

Needs may vary based on your yard layout, desired density, sun and shade, and any underground wiring or piping.
  • Low hedge3 ft apart, center to center
  • Edging along a walk or drive3 ft apart, center to center
Spacing calculator
How many plants fit in your bed or planting area?
These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
For this plant: Water deeply once or twice a week the first year, then deeply through summer and far less in winter. Give it sun with a little afternoon shade in the hottest months, and cover it on the coldest nights.
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Not a good fit for mid elevation areas. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Not a good fit for the high desert. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Not a good fit for the mountains. See the plant check above for why.
Watering
Deep, and less in winter
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Water deeply once or twice a week the first year. Once rooted, water deeply and regularly in summer, far less in winter, and let the upper soil dry between soaks.

Yellow leaves
Usually too wet
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Leaves yellow when alkaline soil stays wet, and poor drainage can rot the roots. Let the soil dry between waterings.

Frost
Cover young plants
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Leaves can be injured in the mid to upper 20s. Cover young plants with frost cloth on freezing nights.

Pruning
Light, with gloves
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A light trim after flowering keeps it neat. Wear gloves, since the stems carry spines and the milky sap can irritate skin.

Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
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Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
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If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Native desert soil
Well suited
Anything from clay to sand works if it drains.
Alkaline soil is fine when it is not kept wet.
Sandy or rocky soil
Ideal
It drains well, which suits it.
Heavy clay
Manageable
Wet clay yellows the leaves and can rot the roots.
Caliche
Prep required
Caliche blocks drainage under the roots.
Break through it, or dig holes through it beside the root ball so water can drain.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.

What makes it different from Boxwood Beauty?
Its leaves are variegated, edged and splashed with cream to yellow, instead of solid dark green.

Are the flowers fragrant?
Yes. Natal plum flowers are white and star-shaped, with a jasmine-like scent.

Does it have thorns?
Natal plum carries forked spines on its stems. Wear gloves when you prune, since the milky sap can also irritate skin.

How often should I water it?
Water deeply once or twice a week the first year. Once rooted, water deeply and regularly in summer and far less in winter, letting the top of the soil dry between soaks.

How much sun does it need in Phoenix?
Sun is best, and it gets sparse in full shade. A little shade on the hottest summer afternoons helps prevent leaf scorch.

Why are the leaves turning red in winter?
Cold nights can turn natal plum leaves reddish purple. They green up again in spring on their own.

Is it frost hardy?
Leaves are injured in the mid to upper 20s, and the plant is rated to about 26°F. Cover young plants with frost cloth on the coldest nights.

Is the fruit edible?
Natal plum fruit is edible once fully ripe and red. Unripe fruit oozes a white latex, so wait for full color.

Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Variegated Boxwood Beauty.
No tips here yet. If you've grown Variegated Boxwood Beauty in an Arizona yard, use the "Love this plant?" box under the photo to share what worked. Approved tips show up here.

Variegated Boxwood Beauty for sale in Arizona, delivered to you

Variegated Boxwood Beauty is a cream-variegated form of natal plum. This page covers its leaves, flowers, sun, water, frost and pruning in the Valley.

Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.

What is Variegated Boxwood Beauty?

It is a variegated natal plum, with glossy leaves edged in cream to yellow.

Natal plum flowers

White, star-shaped flowers with a jasmine-like scent open through much of the year.

Watering natal plum in Phoenix

Deep water once or twice a week the first year, then deep summer water and far less in winter.

Sun and shade

Sun is best, with a little afternoon shade in the hottest months. It gets sparse in full shade.

Is natal plum frost hardy?

Leaves are injured in the mid to upper 20s, and the plant is rated to about 26°F.

Pruning natal plum

A light trim after flowering keeps it neat. Wear gloves for the spines and sap.

We deliver across the Valley, from Phoenix, Scottsdale and Mesa out to San Tan Valley, Maricopa and Casa Grande, and up to Prescott, Sedona, Payson and Globe. See delivery areas and rates.