Creeping fig staked
5 Gallon
$30.99
Creeping Fig staked, 5 gallon, Arizona Plant People
Creeping Fig staked, 5 gallon, Arizona Plant People
Creeping fig staked 15 Gallon
Creeping fig staked 5 Gallon

Actual size and flowering may vary slightly based on season.

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Creeping fig staked

Ficus pumila
Self-clinging vine for shaded walls
SunPart shade
WaterRegular
BloomNot showy
Height20-40 ft
Width20-40 ft
Cold hardy15°F
USDA zones8b-11
EvergreenPrivacy screen
Found on 18 Valley community plant lists. Check with your community or HOA. Requirements are subject to change.
Arizona grown
Arrives healthy
Size
Results vary based on soil, season, sun, and watering. These reflect what this plant is capable of under good Arizona conditions.
1 GallonA young staked vine and the budget way to start a long wall. It grows slowly at first, then speeds up.
5 GallonA fuller staked vine with more stems to spread across the wall from day one.
15 GallonOur largest size, for the quickest wall cover. Container class can vary slightly by crop, and when it does we send the larger size.
$30.99
Straight from Arizona growers to your door.
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Questions? Reach us at (480) 620-4838 or hello@arizonaplantpeople.com.
Will it thrive in your climate?
Results based on climate and cold hardiness. For soil-specific guidance see Care and Planting.
Based on your ZIP's USDA hardiness zone, your part of Arizona, and this plant's cold rating.

Creeping fig is an evergreen vine that clings flat to block, brick and stucco with tiny rootlets, covering a wall in small heart-shaped leaves with no trellis. It is slow for the first while, then grows fast and can cover 20 feet or more of wall.

In the Valley it does best on a north or east wall or in part shade. Hot afternoon sun on a west or south wall yellows the leaves. It needs regular water and is hardy to about 15°F. Once it grips, it is hard to remove, so plant it where you want permanent cover.

Best for: covering north and east walls, softening block walls in shaded courtyards and entries, greening a fence, and large pots in shady spots.

Where it works best in Arizona yards
North and east walls
Where it looks its best
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Creeping fig does best in part or full shade, so a north or east wall is the ideal spot. Plant it at the base of the wall and it climbs on its own with tiny rootlets, no trellis or wires needed. Plant 6 to 8 feet apart along a long wall.

Shaded courtyards and entries
A cool, soft green wall
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It turns a plain block or stucco wall into a flat sheet of small green leaves, which softens a courtyard, entry or side yard. It stays green all year in a normal Valley winter. Trim it regularly so it stays flat and neat.

Fences and screens
Green cover on a fence line
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It climbs chain link, wrought iron and wood fences as well as walls, filling a fence into a green screen over time. Growth is slow at first, then speeds up quickly once it is rooted. Plant 6 feet apart for faster cover.

Large pots in shade
Cover without planting in the ground
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It grows well in a large pot, which works in a shady patio corner or next to a tree where roots make digging hard. Set the pot at the base of a wall, post or pillar and let the stems climb.

Where it struggles
Hot sun and house walls
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Afternoon sun on a west or south wall yellows and stresses the leaves, so keep it on the shady side. Once it grips, it is hard to remove, marks paint and can damage wood, and its roots can crack slabs. Put it on a garden wall you want covered for good, not your house.

Needs may vary based on your yard layout, desired density, sun and shade, and any underground wiring or piping.
  • Faster wall cover6 ft apart
  • Standard wall or fence run8 ft apart
Hedge calculator
How many plants do you need for your fence line?
These are general guidelines. Conditions vary by soil type, sun, and time of year.
For this plant: Plant it on a north or east wall or in part shade, because hot afternoon sun on a west or south wall yellows the leaves. Water regularly and do not let it dry out in summer. Prune regularly to keep it off roofs, eaves and windows.
Showing:
When to plant in the Valley
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Ideal The easiest time to plant. Roots get the longest stretch of good weather to settle in.
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month.
In the Valley, frost is possible from about Thanksgiving to Valentine's Day.
When to plant around Sedona, Cottonwood and Globe
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Good Plantable with normal care. Roots settle in more slowly, but there is little stress.
Extra care needed Can be done with closer attention to watering while the plant settles in.
Most demanding The hardest window. Planting is possible, but expect frequent deep watering while it settles in.
This month Outlined in the strip.
This plant can go in the ground any time of year. The colors show how much effort getting it rooted takes in each month. Winter cold here can hurt this plant, so spring after the last frost is the safer time to plant.
At mid elevation the last frost usually comes between late March and late April; a later frost is possible.
When to plant around Prescott, Payson and Chino Valley
Not a good fit for the high desert. See the plant check above for why.
When to plant around Flagstaff, Show Low and Williams
Not a good fit for the mountains. See the plant check above for why.
Watering
Regular, never bone dry in summer
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Water a new vine every 3 to 4 days for the first two weeks, and more often in summer heat, then stretch it out over about two months. Once rooted, water about every 7 to 10 days in summer, every 10 to 14 days in spring and fall, and every 2 to 3 weeks in winter. It is not drought tolerant, so do not let it dry out in summer heat.

Pruning
Light trims, hard cut every few years
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Trim it regularly to keep it out of roofs, eaves and windows. Cut back stiff stems that stick out from the wall, since they carry the large leaves. Every few years, prune it hard in spring to shrink it and renew the small leaves.

Sun and heat
Keep it on the shady side
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Plant it on a north or east wall or in part shade. Hot afternoon sun on a west or south wall yellows the leaves in summer. If a sunny wall is your only option, choose a different vine.

Yellow leaves and iron
Common in alkaline soil
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Alkaline Valley soil often locks up iron, which turns new leaves yellow with green veins. Give it an iron product in spring when you see this. Hot afternoon sun also yellows the leaves, so check where it is planted.

Site and soil prep
Drainage test, weed cloth, rock and decomposed granite yards
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Drainage test first. Dig the hole and fill it with water. If water is still sitting in the hole a day later, you likely hit caliche, clay or hard soil, so fix the drainage before planting. If it drains very fast, the soil is sandy. Standing water around roots is a common reason new plants fail.

Weed cloth. Cut it away from the planting hole and where the roots will spread. Remove any plastic sheeting completely, since it keeps water and air out of the soil.

Rock or decomposed granite with no soil underneath. Bring in soil close in texture to your native soil, mix it with the soil below, and build up enough depth for roots before planting.

Caliche prep
Break through or mound over it
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If you can break through. Use a breaker bar, pick, or jackhammer. Dig through the caliche and break out the solid chunks. Backfill with the soil you dug out, with no compost or manure in the hole. Confirm drainage before planting.

If you cannot break through. Dig narrow holes through the hard layer beside the root ball, not under it, and refill them with the same soil, not gravel. If it still will not drain, plant on a low mound of the same soil.

Planting
Root ball, depth, emitter placement
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Root ball. Check the outside edges for any roots circling around. Loosen or cut those so they grow outward. Do not break up the center of the root ball.

Depth. The top of the root ball should sit at or just slightly above the surrounding soil level. Planting too deep can lead to rot and kill the plant.

Drip emitters. At planting, put the emitters on the root ball, on different sides of the plant. After about 2 months, move them to the outer edge of the root ball. Over the first year, add emitters farther out toward the edge of the branches as roots grow. Once a plant is rooted, never water only at the trunk.

Soil guide: tap any type for details
Rich soil with compost
Ideal
Moist soil that still drains, with plenty of organic matter, suits it best.
Mix compost into the planting area to help hold moisture.
Native desert soil
Manageable
It grows in native soil that drains.
Alkaline soil often yellows the leaves from a lack of iron, so watch new growth.
Clay
Manageable
It tolerates clay.
Water slowly and less often so the roots do not sit soggy.
Sandy or rocky soil
Manageable
It tolerates sand and rocky soil.
Sandy soil dries fast, so water at the shorter end of the schedule in summer.
Pots
Well suited
It grows well in a large pot in shade.
A pot works next to a tree where roots make digging hard.
Have a question?
Ask us anything about this plant and we will get back to you directly.

Does creeping fig need a trellis?
No. It clings to block, brick and stucco on its own with tiny rootlets along the stems. Plant it at the base of the wall and set the stems against the surface so they can grab.

Can creeping fig take full sun in Phoenix?
It does best in part or full shade on a north or east wall. Hot afternoon sun on a west or south wall turns the leaves yellow, so plant it on the shady side of the yard.

Will it damage my wall?
Yes, it can mark or damage surfaces. Once it grips, it is hard to remove and leaves marks on painted walls, it can damage wood, and its roots can crack slabs and lift patios. Plant it on a garden wall you want covered for good, not on the house.

Why are some leaves much bigger than others?
Older stems turn stiff, stick out from the wall and grow leaves two to three times larger. Cut those stiff stems back to bring back the small, flat leaves.

How often should I water creeping fig?
Water a new vine every 3 to 4 days for two weeks, and more often in summer heat, then slowly space it out. Once rooted, water about every 7 to 10 days in summer and every 2 to 3 weeks in winter. It is not drought tolerant, so do not let it dry out in summer.

Why are the leaves turning yellow?
Yellow leaves usually mean too much hot sun or a lack of iron from alkaline Valley soil. If the plant sits in hot afternoon sun, that spot is too harsh for it. If it is in shade, give it an iron product in spring.

How fast does creeping fig grow?
It grows slowly at first, then its growth speeds up dramatically once it is rooted. Plan on a slow first stretch before it starts to cover the wall.

How cold hardy is it?
It is hardy to about 15°F, and older plants have taken cold near 10°F. That makes it far tougher than its tropical look suggests in a Valley winter.

How far apart should I plant it?
Plant about 6 to 8 feet apart along a wall or fence. Use 6 feet for faster cover.

How do I keep it in bounds?
Trim it regularly so it does not grow into roofs, eaves and windows. Every few years, prune it hard in spring to reduce its size and renew it.

Can I grow creeping fig in a pot?
Yes. It grows well in a large pot in a shady spot. This works well in a patio corner or next to a tree where roots make digging hard.

Real, approved advice from Arizona growers who have planted Creeping fig staked.
No tips here yet. If you've grown Creeping fig staked in an Arizona yard, use the "Love this plant?" box under the photo to share what worked. Approved tips show up here.

Creeping fig staked for sale in Arizona, delivered to you

Creeping fig is the classic vine for covering a wall in a flat, fine layer of small green leaves. It clings on its own, stays green all year and loves the shady side of the house. This page covers which wall to use, spacing, watering, pruning, yellow leaves and what to know before it goes on a wall.

Sourced from trusted Arizona growers and delivered directly to your door, job site, or property. We deliver across the Valley and to nearby towns, and quote delivery anywhere else in Arizona.

Creeping fig for Valley walls

Creeping fig is an evergreen vine that clings flat to walls with tiny rootlets and covers them in small heart-shaped leaves. It does best on shaded north and east walls with regular water.

Does creeping fig need support?

No. It grips block, brick and stucco on its own, so it needs no trellis or wires. Plant it at the base of the wall and it climbs from there.

Best wall for creeping fig in Phoenix

North and east walls are best. Hot afternoon sun on a west or south wall yellows the leaves, so keep it on the shady side of the yard.

How far apart to plant creeping fig

Plant about 6 to 8 feet apart along a wall or fence. Closer spacing covers the wall sooner.

How to keep small creeping fig leaves

Older stems turn stiff and grow much larger leaves. Cut those stems back to bring back the fine, flat look.

Is creeping fig bad for walls?

It is hard to remove, marks paint and can damage wood, and its roots can crack slabs. Use it on garden walls you want covered for good.

Why creeping fig turns yellow in Arizona

Alkaline soil often causes a lack of iron, and hot afternoon sun also yellows the leaves. Give it shade and an iron product in spring.

We deliver across the Valley, from Phoenix, Scottsdale and Mesa out to San Tan Valley, Maricopa and Casa Grande, and up to Prescott, Sedona, Payson and Globe. See delivery areas and rates.